Monday, November 26, 2012

Taroko Gorge-ous!

we hiked to the top of this temple

Bamboo rice at an aboriginal restaurant


I just returned from a four day visit to Taroko Gorge in Taroko National Park (太魯閣國家公園) in the Eastern mountains of Taiwan. Taroko means "magnificent and beautiful" in Truku (太魯閣族), which is one of the indigenous tribes in Taiwan. Taroko Gorge is Yosemite times 1000! It is just that spectacular, with mist lined mountains rising sharply from the white marble gorges. There are waterfalls, jagged cliffs, suspension bridges, caves, and temples everywhere and you feel as if you have magically walked into a Chinese painting. See the temple in the first pic, we hiked to the top of it! We stayed in a cabin at the Bulowan aboriginal village of the Truku tribe and enjoyed delicious tribal feasts and meaningful cultural performances. The feasts included wild boar, bamboo stuffed rice, bitter melon soup (now we're talking!), millet wine (you drink from a clay boar cup), mountain vegetables, steamed fish, and numerous noodle and side dishes. The performances included songs and dances by local Truku children, lubu (or mouth harp), and wood carved xylophones. We also saw the Amis performances at Tiansiang. While the dances and food definitely offer a wonderful opportunity to experience unique aspects of a culture, I most appreciated the time I spent talking with members of the Truku and Amis tribe during my visit and learning more about their complex history and disputes for recognition. In fact, the Truku were the 12th indigenous tribe to be recognized in Taiwan and this did not happen until January 15th, 2004. Over the years, the Truku language and culture have been diminishing due to displacement and assimilation from the Han Chinese culture. Bulowan seeks to preserve and raise awareness about this important aboriginal community. 

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